Navigating Mobility in the Streets of Havana
By Jada Pierre
Despite the challenges of urban renewal and an overreliance on cars, Boston’s commitment to walkability makes it one of the most livable places in the United States. Growing up in the neighborhood of Roxbury meant I could walk to places like Nubian Station and The Cathedral of the Holy Cross in the South End almost anytime I wanted. During heat emergencies or brutal snowstorms, the MBTA was always there, connecting me, my neighbors, and fellow commuters to our destinations by train. And I could bike comfortably using the growing Bluebike network. These mobility options gave me an early sense of independence that has shaped who I am and how I navigate my environment.
As a Cuban-American, I also reflect on how transportation and walkability shape daily life in different parts of the world. During my thesis research in Havana, I approached the cityscape with a new lens. How does one navigate its streets? What are the typical challenges? I hope to provide one perspective within an ongoing conversation about mobility, sustainability, and development in the Global South.
Walkability in Havana
Transportation is fundamental to mobility justice — a world where everyone can move with dignity — and in the Global South, it is a critical tool for bridging gaps in access and opportunity. In the Caribbean, resources are often limited, and an effective transportation system can mean the difference between economic stagnation and opportunities for growth and development. Reliable transportation gives people access to education, healthcare, and employment opportunities, which in turn helps communities break cycles of poverty.
On the other hand, what happens when we don’t build cities for easy movement?
In Havana, getting around reveals just how much a city’s design can shape everyday life. During my trip, I unfortunately felt Havana was not walkable. While it differs by area — such as Havana Vieja (Old Havana) or L y 23, where tourists typically spend their time — most of the city is designed without pedestrians in mind. Even if a destination is just a minute or two away, walking on the road often feels more practical than on the sidewalk.
One factor complicating this issue is trash collection. In Havana, many sidewalks are obstructed by trash spilling out of overflowing dumpsters, reflecting significant challenges within the city’s waste management system. Only half of the necessary garbage trucks are in operation. Working trucks break down regularly, and there are few spare parts, a situation compounded by U.S. sanctions. Severe fuel shortages since 2023 have further limited the system’s functionality, while wages as low as 17 USD a month have made it difficult to retain workers.
As a result, over 30,000 cubic meters of trash accumulate on Havana’s sidewalks daily, a dramatic increase compared to just a year ago. For residents, this makes walking in the street second nature; it is often the only practical option when trash blocks the sidewalk. It is common for cars to monopolize the street over pedestrians; whenever a vehicle approaches the street, people cram next to the sidewalk to make space. This situation is a key example of how Havana’s infrastructure impacts daily life.
Signage and Wayfinding
Having traveled to numerous countries in Latin America and the Caribbean, I noticed another key feature of Havana: its use of rocks as informal street markers instead of more typical signage. Street signs and navigation tools like maps are usually only found in tourist areas.
Compared to Boston, where maps are often available at bus stops and street signs are commonplace, this difference in navigation infrastructure is notable. The absence of consistent street signage or visual aids in Havana creates challenges, particularly for visual learners and tourists unfamiliar with the area. Without clear references, navigating the city requires memorizing landmarks, asking for directions, or relying on digital tools — methods that can feel limiting and inconvenient.
This difference in navigation systems stems broadly from economic and historical circumstances. Cuba’s limited resources have restricted investment in urban development, including wayfinding tools, while cities like Boston have had more opportunities to develop such systems over time.
Taxis and Ridesharing
Finally, finding a taxi in Havana can be frustrating, as demand often exceeds supply. Locals I spoke with described the taxi system as unreasonable, especially for people without a car. During one conversation, a local pointed out a taxi, mentioning that it only accepted U.S. dollars.
For those with the contact information of a taxi driver, the system works more like an informal Uber; pickups and drop-offs get arranged directly, and payments are handled at the time of service. While such solutions provide some relief, they don’t fully address the deeper problems of limited mobility options.
Culture and Women’s Safety
Even as addressing Havana’s transportation challenges is crucial, mobility is shaped by cultural dynamics and social behaviors. Catcalling, or piropo is an ingrained aspect of Cuban street culture that significantly affects how women navigate public spaces. For women like myself in Havana, the constant barrage of catcalls — ranging from comments like linda (beautiful) to more vulgar remarks — shapes how they experience mobility. These interactions, often accompanied by whistles, kissing sounds, and other noises, occur so frequently that women can face multiple calls within minutes of walking down the street. I had catcalls greeting me nearly every time I walked alone, turning what should have been simple trips into moments of discomfort and hyper-awareness.
This cultural phenomenon is rooted in Cuba’s machismo culture, where piropos are seen as flattery rather than harassment, especially by older generations. However, for many women, especially tourists, the relentless nature of catcalling feels overwhelming, intimidating, and intrusive. While physical safety may not always be at immediate risk, the psychological toll of navigating these interactions can significantly impact a woman’s sense of freedom and comfort.
I often had to be accompanied by a man, which further limited my ability to move freely and independently as a woman in the city.
Seeking Innovative Mobility Solutions
Even amidst these challenges, Havana’s transportation system offers a few affordable options that help ensure mobility remains somewhat accessible for both locals and tourists. One of the most iconic modes of transport is the colectivo, or shared taxi. These vintage American cars, known locally as máquinas, run along fixed routes and offer an economical way to travel across Havana. For just a fraction of the cost of private taxis, colectivos allow passengers to cover significant distances efficiently, making them a cornerstone of urban mobility.
The public bus network, while often crowded, also plays an essential role in allowing mobility for the city’s residents. With fares costing just a few cents in USD, buses provide one of the most affordable ways to navigate Havana. For many locals, these buses are indispensable for daily commutes, enabling them to access work, education, and services without the financial burden of more expensive alternatives. While the system has inefficiencies, it vitally links Havana’s transportation network.
Another innovative option enhancing mobility is the Ecotaxi, an electric three-wheeler ideal for short-distance trips. At just four pesos per ride — roughly 0.17 USD — Ecotaxis are not only affordable but also environmentally friendly. They offer a quick and convenient way to navigate Havana’s busy streets, particularly for those traveling within neighborhoods or between nearby destinations.
These transportation options show how Havana has adapted to provide practical ways to get around despite economic limitations. For locals, these modes of transportation help them independently navigate their city. For tourists, they offer a glimpse into everyday life in Havana and an affordable way to explore its streets. While the city’s mobility landscape has limitations, the accessibility of options like colectivos, buses, and Ecotaxis reflects efforts to provide practical solutions for the needs of its people.
Building Mobility Justice in Havana — and Beyond
In the long term, however, urban planners and advocates for mobility justice should understand the more fundamental ways transportation empowers local communities to thrive. Affordable and reliable options like public buses or shared taxis can provide independence and improve daily life. Prioritizing sustainable transportation solutions is equally important, as many of these countries are on the frontlines of climate change.
Sustainable, people-first mobility would build a foundation for development, strengthen tourism, improve infrastructure, secure independence for marginalized groups, and allow Havana and other cities in the Global South to thrive in the ever-dynamic 21st century.
